PROFESSIONAL DOME PLANS Third
Copyright © 1987, 1988,
2002 by Jeffrey O. Hill
All rights reserved.
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FULL TEXT & INDEX
Building a geodesic dome as a do-it-yourself
project can be a real challenge. Its difficult to know
where to begin even for those with considerable building experience.
If you dig deep enough, you can find plenty of information
describing the geometry of domes, although most of it is rather
technical and theoretical and often lacks the kind of practical
hands on advice needed to turn theory into a finished product.
This plan book is designed to fill that
void by focusing almost entirely on simple, detailed shop
drawings that show how geodesic domes are built with virtually no need
for higher math. In fact, the only math youll see in
these plans are the 4 basic functions used in a list of formulas
for calculating the length of various parts.
The underlying geometry describes carbon
60, the third stable form of pure carbon after graphite and
diamond called buckminsterfullerene or buckyballs. Its shape
is a 3 frequency (3v) icosahedron which is an industry-standard
for dome homes. If that sounds complicated, and Im pretty
sure it does, I guarantee you it doesnt matter. Understanding
the complex geodesic math involved in the design of domes
is completely unnecessary when it comes to the actual process
of building one. All youll need are basic woodworking
skills and a little patience. With that, you should have little
trouble building your own dome.
HEXagons and PENTagons:
3v icosa domes are made up of two basic shapes of isosceles
triangles arranged in groups. There are five groups of six
panels each, called Hex groups, and six groups of five panels
each, called Pent groups. These are easy to imagine by using
a classic black and white soccer ball. The white patches are
Hex groups and the black patches are Pent groups. By putting
one Pent group on top and cutting an imaginary plane under
the other five Pent groups that surround it, you will see
the approximate 3/8 sphere described in these plans.
A CHORD is the line that defines the side
of a triangular panel. All chords intersect the imaginary sphere
at both ends to create nodes and a soccer ball shape with
flat triangular facets.
CHORD FACTORS are numbers that represent
ratios that are multiplied by the dome diameter (DD) to calculate
the length of chords. They are always stated as the DD x the
number. An example would be: 540" x .2048135683 = 110.5993269"
or 110 19/32" which is the A chord for a 45 dome.
Sometimes dome books use chord factors referenced
to the true radius or diameter of the sphere the dome is based
on. While technically accurate, these numbers are a little
difficult to work with because you cant easily measure
the true radius or diameter of a 3v dome. This is because the
true center of the sphere lies below the floor plane that
divides the dome into useful structures. While the chord factors
used here are related to the true diameter, they are referenced
to the diameter at floor level. This is a number twice the
radius from the center of the floor to any corner (p. 9).
No two corners are opposite each other in a straight line
however so in a 40 dome there is no 40 line but
rather a 20 radius that scribes a 40 circle.
Even though the diameter is never really
measured, it still serves as a perfect benchmark to ratio
many other dimensions from. For example: the radius of a 40
dome is 40 x .5 or 20. Similarly, the true diameter
of a 40 dome is 40 x 1.015063688 or 40 7
7/32". This will work with all scalable dimensions if
you have the right ratios.
Incidentally, nearly all measurements are
given in inches rather than feet with the exception being
explanations like the one above. Decimal calculations done
in feet add the complication of converting the remainder to
inches which is just another opportunity for error.
STRUTS are the individual boards that
make up the sides of the panels. Their lengths are found by
multiplying the DD x a chord factor minus a constant that allows
for the angled cross-section of the adjacent strut.
The labeling of struts corresponds to the
group theyre associated with. H stands for Hex and P
for Pent followed by A, B or C added in a clockwise direction
beginning with the base: HA, HB and HC for Hex panels, and
PA, PB and PC for Pents.
BACKERS are the boards that fill in the
panels and provide backing for the Sheetrock® . They are
labeled with a P or H followed by 1, 2, 3 etc. from largest
RISER WALLS are typically short walls
that sit directly under the lower Pent groups. In domes smaller
than 45 they are necessary to allow adequate height
for entry through the natural openings. By raising the dome
they also provide more usable floor space on the second floor.
The ratios provided in the Elevation drawing
(p.11) give an idea of the effect of different riser wall
heights on interior space. Simply multiply the DD x the ratio
of a selected node and you will get its height, excluding
the riser wall, for any size dome. Now add whatever riser
wall height you want and youll see exactly where that
node will be on the second floor. This can be very helpful
in deciding where to put skylights in case you might want
to see something other than sky.
SHEAR PANELS are rectangular stress skin
panels that are bolted and strapped to the ends of the riser
walls and to the foundation. They prevent the riser walls
from being pushed over by the dome by holding them in a ridged
vertical position. Standard Shear Panels sit in line with
the exterior walls and should be incorporated into the walls
design. The suggested size represents the minimum. The larger
the area of shear the stronger and safer the design.
Extension Shear Panels project from the
dome perpendicular to the openings and provide a base to build
extensions on. In this arrangement they form a buttress which
is very effective in resisting the overturning forces of the
The TENSION RING is the line of struts
that surrounds the dome just above the natural openings. This
is where the compressional forces of live and dead loads are
transformed into tension and constrained by the straps in
a circle around the dome. The give and take of compression
and tension is of course far more complicated than that, but
the conclusion is the same. The tension ring holds the dome
together and is one of the most critical links in the system.
Great care should be taken to see that its secure. In
fact its probably wise (although its not always
done) to double the A strut in the Hex panels over the openings.
This gives you a double strut around the entire dome. At the
cost of 5 boards it seems a small price to pay for the added
security. To properly install straps, you need solid material
beneath all the nails, so without a second strut you will
need to add blocking anyway .
The two drawings on pages 10 and 11 show a top view and an
elevation of an approximate 40 dome on a 3 1/2
riser wall. They are consistent except for a slightly different
placement of skylight panels and no shear panels in the top
view. Ratios are given for several dimensions which should
give you some feel for the proportions of different sized
In the elevation, dotted lines, which normally
represent hidden lines, are instead used to show panels visible
only from the inside. The little numbers at the vertex of
each panel match numbers on the individual panel drawings
to indicate their general type and location.
In the lower Pent groups youll notice
that the two Bottom Side Pent panels have the backers laid
out parallel to the A strut rather than perpendicular. Often
domes are built with all the Pent panels constructed identically
as Standard Pent panels. With larger domes or in heavy snow
loads, you should consider using this alternate parallel layout.
Structurally, the bottom three Pent panels are really more
of a wall the dome sits on than part of the dome itself. Running
the backers in this more or less vertical arrangement, in
the Bottom Side Pents, makes much better use of their load
bearing capacity and greatly improves the panels resistance
to buckling under stress.
PANEL DRAWINGS: All panels are drawn
skin side up with the skin removed. Possible plywood layouts
are shown on the next page. Panels are also all shown framed
as 2x6 with backers on 24" centers although 2x4 domes
and big domes in heavy snow loads may be safer when built
with 16" centers.
As for 2x4 versus 2x6 construction, I would
advise not to build any serious dome home with 2x4s. A good
case can be made for the relative strength and energy efficiency
of 2x4s in domes versus 2x6s in a conventional structure,
but its an apples and oranges argument. The real comparison
is dome to dome and in that case 2x6 is better in nearly every
way, if perhaps a trifle more expensive in material. Local
building officials, who are often unfamiliar with dome construction
methods, are also much less likely to have a 2x6 dome violate
their comfort zone.
All parts measurements are taken from the
outer surface of the framing at the outside upper edge of
the panels as defined by the chord lines. This allows for the
dome to be made from any dimension lumber from 2x2s to 2x12s,
without changing the lengths of the parts.
Triangular skylight drawings are shown with
the 2x4 curb removed and drawn truncated in the center. A
cross-section of this detail appears at the upper left of
each drawing. Rectangular Velux® skylights are flush mounted
Bolt hole layouts are intended to be universal
and work, in most cases, with any panel of the same basic
size and shape. The exceptions are with a few Velux skylights
and are noted on the drawings.
PLYWOOD DRAWINGS: These drawings show
possible ways of cutting plywood skins from 4x8 and occasionally
4x10 plywood. When cutting skins for a dome other than the
ones pictured, follow the basic style shown here. Make sure
any seams between plywood pieces fall on backing and are glued
and stapled. In panelized stress skin domes, the skin carries
a good deal of the load, so breaks in the skin are potential
breaks in the load transfer.
RISER WALL DRAWINGS: Riser walls are
drawn with an additional end view to make them clearer. The
bottom plates and studs are not shown separately because they
have only simple angles evident from the main drawings.
The riser walls pictured for the three domes
drawn are sized to position the A Strut in the Hex panels
over the openings about 36" off the second floor. This
allows for a nice view from a skylight.
Riser walls can be almost any height as
long as the shear panels are proportionate. A good rule of
thumb is the shear panel should be at least as wide as it
Its actually best to incorporate the
shear panels right into the exterior walls. This way the effective
area of shear will increase where any plywood laps beyond
the minimum framing of the shear panel itself.
When building on a concrete slab, make sure
you carefully locate and incorporate the bottom straps into
the foundation when it is poured. No matter how strongly built
your riser walls and shear panels are, theyre useless
unless properly attached to the foundation.
Its also possible to use no riser
wall at all. This is a interesting alternative for domes over
45 built on a tight budget. Its often less expensive
to build these domes per square foot because there are fewer
and larger components for the same usable floor space. 45
is about as small as you can go with this design though, in
that you need a minimum height for the exterior doors.
If you choose to use this simplified design
you will need a bottom plate under the dome beveled to the
same angle as the riser wall top.
STRUT & BACKER CROSS-SECTIONS: Struts,
because they must be beveled on both edges, always require
a wider initial piece of lumber than backers. If for instance,
backers are made from full 2x6s, then their accompanying struts
will have to be cut down from 2x8s. Similarly if struts start
out as 2x6s and are minimally milled, they will end up slightly
smaller and the backers will need to be ripped down to match.
The drawings on page 8 show both options for 2x4, 2x6 and
PARTS DRAWINGS: These drawings are the
real heart of the plans. They appear with every panel and
show a simplified view of its most complicated parts (simple
blocks are omitted).
Boards are shown as if lying flat on your
radial arm saw table. They are to rough scale with the lengths
truncated to save space. Very slight angles have been exaggerated
for clarity. Degree marks are omitted as unnecessary.
Angles are given in reference to the saw
with S indicating the Swing of the arm and T being the Tilt
of the head. B indicates the Bevel of your table saw and appears
with the end view.
Dimensions of backers that vary only in
length are shown in a list above or below the drawings with
only the longest backer shown.
Identifying labels are placed on the same
end of the boards as they appear in the scale drawings. The
little arrows show the side of the boards the skin is attached
to. Make sure you apply these labels and arrows to every board
as you go about cutting. If you dont, I guarantee you
that you wont be able to tell them apart especially
with the Hex struts.
ANGLES: Angles are always displayed to
the second decimal and are never rounded off. This makes matching
the 10 digit equivalents listed with the formulas easy. You
may never need to use any of these precision numbers but if
you ever want to calculate some new part, they can be a very
useful starting point.
DIMENSIONS: Dimensions are rounded generally
to the nearest 1/32" with very slight adjustments made
to allow for matching struts that round in opposite directions.
This level of accuracy may seem extreme,
but its my experience that people are capable of making
all the necessary mistakes without help from sloppy dimensions.
Just seeing numbers like 110 19/32" tends to make one
work more carefully. Then too, domes are far less forgiving
than most wooden structures. Even small errors will accumulate
making the last panels difficult to install.
The lengths of parts for arbitrary-sized
domes can be calculated using 12 simple, although very precise
formulas, on page 6. They all use the same approach
DD x a ratio minus a constant or two to get the final length.
There are also 4 tables that list strut
and backer lengths precalculated for 49 dome sizes from 12
to 60 with backer lengths figured for both 16"
and 24" centers.
GLUING: Consider gluing if the
dome youre building is over 35 or will be subjected
to heavy loads. The method of dome building shown in these
plans relies heavily on the skin to transfer stress from panel
to panel. When bound to the struts with glue, this capacity
is greatly increased. Shear panels must be glued in any case,
even if you choose not to glue the entire dome.
Glue should be waterproof and "structural",
of the resorcinol phenolic resin type. Construction adhesives,
while better than nothing, will creep under constant stress
over time. Structural glues wont.
NAILING & STAPLING: Nail the framing
with a pneumatic nail gun. Hot dip galvanized, full round
head, 3 1/2" by .120" spiral shank nails should
work well. These nails are very long and thin. This allows
good penetration when shooting at an angle at the strut ends.
The .120" shank also minimizes the chance of splitting
the ends of the struts. Another advantage of air nailing is
that its much faster. Also, if you have a slightly warped
strut, as sometimes happens, you can set one nail as a pivot
point and then with a big Crescent® wrench twist the strut
into position just beyond the right spot with one hand, then
fasten it quickly with the other and it will relax back to
a perfect alignment.
Nail the framing on 2x6 domes with 5 nails
in the panel corners where the struts meet and 4 in both ends
of the backers if using .120" shank nails.
When backers run perpendicular to the A,
strut they should be snugged up and fastened first from the
inside on the sharp end with small staples or nails. This
insures a tight fit which allows the backers to key in place
because of the bevel of the struts.
Flush all framing on the skin side pushing
any error to the inside of the panel. This guarantees an intimate
glue joint with minimal bridging between parts.
When attaching skins I prefer to use staples.
If gluing the skins, space staples 3" on center around
the perimeter and on both sides of any seams and 5" on
center everywhere else. If not gluing, space them even tighter.
If any staples remain above the panel surface, tap them down
flush with a hammer to insure a good glue joint. Also make
sure the crown of the staple does not run parallel to the
grain of the top ply of the plywood. You want the crown to
cross the grain and pull the plywood down.
Nail and staple guns can be rented from
most general rental companies. A Senco® SN65 or FramePro
650 FRH will work well for framing. A Senco® SNS45 or
SNS50 stapler with N-19-BAB staples can be used for skins.
If you have difficulty finding 3 1/2" by .120" gun
nails locally, you can find them at mazenails.com. in Peru,
JIGS: When building just one or two domes,
making elaborate production jigs is unrealistic and unnecessary.
Well cut struts with cleanly fastened corners will have the
proper cords and should produce a nearly perfect dome if the
struts are straight. Bowed struts, on the other hand, will
cause a lot of problems. Even a 1/4" belly in the sides
of two adjacent panels will push the panels apart 1/2"
at the tips. If you do get one end together, the other end
will usually get worse. Errors like this can be overpowered
sometimes during assembly, but its not much fun.
A simple jig made from three dead straight
2x4s nailed to the surface of a work table, snug around a
panel, will help keep the struts straight while installing
the backers and attaching the skin.
LUMBER: For any larger dome lumber should
be #1 grade for struts and at least #2 & better for backers.
Where skins will be glued and the inside finished, it should
also be kiln dried. Air dried lumber will work as long as
its well seasoned with a moisture content as low as
KD. Green or wet lumber will not support a good glue joint
and tends to warp as it dries.
PLYWOOD: Plywood should be at a minimum
1/2" 5 ply CDX or the equivalent, and glued down when
running parallel to the backers. Never use 3 ply or 4 ply
plywood in this arrangement. Its very weak across the
grain and will be spongy under foot, especially on 24"
BOLT HOLES: Bolt holes are laid out from
the vertex down both equal sides for the B and C Struts. For
the A struts theyre laid out from the center to both
ends. This is because in the case of A Struts, HAs match PAs
but must also match themselves. An HA to HA paring will double
any error made in laying out the bolt holes from one end.
Layout done from the center will minimize this problem.
Center is most accurately found by measuring
it twice from both ends of the strut. If both lines are not
in exactly the same spot, a line splitting the difference
will be the center.
Bolt holes can be jigged by drilling holes
for guides in the center of a 2x4 and clamping it flush to
the top of the framing. Just make sure you mark the vertex
end in the case of B and C Struts and always flush that end.
With A Struts, lay the jig holes out from center and match
that mark to a center line made on the struts themselves.
Bolt holes should be drilled 1 3/4"
down the outside face of the struts at 90° to their surface.
This transfers stress in as direct a path as possible from
skin to skin. Holes should be 5/8" when predrilled to
allow for adjustments.
Bolt placement and spacing are somewhat
arbitrary. The layouts illustrated follow a deliberately conservative
pattern of a bolt approximately every 24" beginning and
ending about 10" or less from the tips. The purpose here
is not only to transfer loads, but is also to prevent Sheetrock®
cracking. With domes, the joints in the Sheetrock® unavoidably
fall right on the joints between the panels creating a weak
spot. In a 45 dome this amounts to more than 700
of joint. Thats a lot of potential for damage, so a
few extra bolts are worth the price.
HARDWARE: Bolts can be 1/2" x 4"
grade 2. Washers can be 1/2" heavy flat washers but 3/8"
malleable iron washers work a lot better. Their hole is just
a little over 3/8" so 1/2" bolts (which are actually
under 1/2") will fit through them most of the time without
reaming. The difference is in the amount of torque they will
take. Flat washers will bend in a cup shape under stress and
noticeably crush the wood underneath them. Malleable iron
washers, which have at least three times the bearing surface,
will feel tight long before you notice any crushed wood. This
allows you to torque the bolts closer to specs. and get the
struts tighter together.
STRAPS: The size and strength of straps
used depends on the size of dome you build and the loads you
expect. Single 3 long Simpson MTS37 straps, or the equivalent
in strength, have been used on 45 domes in snow loads
below 30 lbs. In heavier snow loads, a second ring of straps
should be installed at the next ring of struts up from the
Raising a dome is fairly straightforward.
Domes are sometimes raised by prefabricating the lower five
Pent groups on the ground and then tilting them up as one
piece. While this works well enough for smaller 2x4 domes,
it would be difficult and certainly dangerous with a 60
2x6 dome. With larger domes you may want to begin with just
the bottom three Pent panels and go one at a time from then
on. In any case, make sure to brace everything well as you
go. A dome is not self supporting until the first forty panels
are up and form a complete tension ring.
Bolts should be tightened as you go along
except for the two Hex to Hex seams in the Hex group that
meets the last Pent Panel. Leaving these bolts a little loose
allows you to flex the dome open slightly with two long poles
and slip the final Pent panel in more easily. After the dome
is up its a good idea to go around and retorque the
bolts one last time before you cover them up. Sometimes a
few just get missed otherwise.
Take time to finish one step before racing
on to the next. Riser walls and shear panels, if used, should
be completely strapped to the foundation prior to raising
the dome. This guarantees that no movement takes place before
the straps are called on to take up load.
Strapping should be installed on the dome
itself as soon as the tension ring is finished. This is because
tension straps allow a very slight movement of the panels
as they load up. As you add additional panels, the straps
will come under tension and seat, allowing no further movement.
If you wait until after the dome is up to install the straps,
it will actually be the bolts at the tension ring that are
taking the stress and not the straps. Now add a roof, Sheetrock®
and about two feet of snow, and you may get a minor movement
of the panels as the straps take up the additional load. The
result at worst will likely be nothing more than hairline
cracks over the openings but theyre worth avoiding if
SMALL SCALE DOMES
These plans focus mainly on building large
scale domes which is reflected in the use of full-dimension
lumber in all of the drawings and tables. Small scale domes
for use as a back yard storage building or potting shed dont
really need this heavy lumber and can be sensibly built making
panels from thinner lumber such as 1x4s. You can easily calculate
the parts for these domes using the formulas on page 6. They
need only minor modifications that account for the smaller
cross-section of the lumber.
To figure struts, use the same ratios but
reduce the following constant by the percentage your lumber
is thinner than standard 1 1/2" lumber. For instance:
3/4" lumber is 1/2 as thick as standard lumber so you
would divide the constant by 2. 1/2" lumber is 1/3 as
thick so you would divide the constant by 3, and so on.
To figure backers you again use the same
ratios and reduce the first constant by the percentage your
lumber is thinner. The second constant, however, should remain
the same. Its only purpose is to calculate the change in the
length of a backer relative to its position on layout. No
cross-sectional dimensions are involved in this process so
it is unaffected by lumber thickness.
Calculating the length of struts is
straightforward. The dome diameter (DD) is first multiplied
by a ratio to figure the entire length of a panels side
or chord. A constant, which allows for the angled cross-section
of the adjacent strut, is then subtracted to produce the finished
Calculating backers is a little more complicated.
In the case of backers running parallel to any strut, the
DD is first multiplied by a ratio to establish the chord. A
constant is than subtracted that allows for the angled cross-section
of both intersecting struts as if they crossed at both ends.
A second constant is then subtracted for every inch the backer
is away from the base line on layout. That is if the backer
you want is 13 1/2" from the edge, you would multiply
the second constant by 13.5 and subtract.
If the backers are perpendicular to the
A Strut, the DD is first multiplied by a ratio that establishes
a line that bisects the panel through the vertex. A constant
is then subtracted that allows for the cross-section of the
A Strut plus the intersection of the B and C Struts. This
produces a number equal to the length of the first center
backer. Subsequent backers are figured by subtracting a second
constant for every inch they are from the center line on layout.
Remember that since the reference line is to the center of
the panel, and not the edge of a backer, a 3/4" allowance
must be made on the first layout. That is, on 16 centers
laid out on center, the second backer would be 15 1/4"
from center not 16". Laid out off center, the first backer
would be 7 1/4" from the reference line, not 8".
Building a dome is really not that different
from any other building project. In the beginning there are
always two big questions:
1. What do the parts look like?
2. How do they go together?
If you know the answers to these two questions,
your odds of success are pretty good. To that end, I hope
you find these plans helpful.
Most formulas and data have been zeroed in the sample version.
HA = DD x .2048135683 - 1.732050808"
HB = DD x .0000000000 - 0.000000000"
HC = DD x .0000000000 - 0.000000000"
Perpendicular to the A Strut = DD x .0000000000
- 0.000000000" - (0.00000000" per inch
Parallel to the A Strut = DD x .0000000000 -
0.000000000" - (0.000000000" per inch of layout)
Parallel to the B or C Struts = DD x .0000000000
- 0.000000000" - (0.000000000" per inch
PA = DD x .0000000000 - 0.000000000"
PB = DD x .000000000 - 0.000000000"
PC = DD x .000000000 - 0.000000000"
Perpendicular to the A Strut = DD x .000000000
- 0.000000000" - (0.000000000" per inch
Parallel to the A Strut = DD x .0000000000 -
0.000000000" - (0.000000000" per inch of layout)
Parallel to the B or C Struts = DD x .000000000
- 0.000000000" - (0.000000000" per inch
1. --- 7. Text
8. Strut and backer cross sections
9. Foundation Layout
10. Top View
12. 39 Standard Pent
13. plywood layout for above
14. 39 Bottom Side Pent
15. plywood layout for above
16. 39 Pent for Sierra Plastics P35 Skylight
17. plywood layout for above
18. 39 Pent for Velux Model 104 Skylights
19. plywood layout for above
20. 39 Standard Hex
21. plywood layout for above
22. 39 Hex for Sierra Plastics H35 Skylight
23. plywood layout for above
24. 39 Hex for Velux Model 304 Skylights
25. plywood layout for above
26. 39 Hex for Velux Model 104 Skylights
27. plywood layout for above
28. 18/18 & 27/27 Riser Walls for 39 Dome
29. 18/27 & 27/18 Riser Walls for 39 Dome
30. Standard & Extension Shear Panels for 39 Dome
31. & 32. Table of Pent backers perpendicular to the A
33. Table of Pent backers parallel to the A Strut
34. 45 Standard Pent
35. plywood layout for above
36. 45 Bottom Side Pent
37. plywood layout for above
38. 45 Pent for Sierra Plastics P45 Skylight
39. plywood layout for above
40. 45 Pent for Velux Model 306 Skylights
41. plywood layout for above
42. 45 Standard Hex
43. plywood layout for above
44. 45 Hex for Sierra Plastics H45 Skylight
45. plywood layout for above
46. 45 Hex for Velux Model 108 Skylights
47. plywood layout for above
48. 45 Hex for Velux Model 308 Skylights
49. plywood layout for above
50. 18/18 & 27/27 Riser Walls for 45 Dome
51. 18/27 & 27/18 Riser Walls for 45 Dome
52. Standard & Extension Shear Panels for 45 Dome
53. & 54. Table of Hex backers perpendicular to the A
55. Table of strut lengths for both Hex and Pent panels.
56. 50 Standard Pent
57. plywood layout for above
58. 50 Bottom Side Pent
59. plywood layout for above
60. 50 Pent for Sierra Plastics P60 Skylight
61. plywood layout for above
62. 50 Pent for Velux Model 306 Skylights
63. plywood layout for above
64. 50 Pent for Velux Model 108 Skylights
65. plywood layout for above
66. 50 Standard Hex
67. plywood layout for above
68. 50 Hex for Sierra Plastics H60 Skylight
69. plywood layout for above
70. 50 Hex for Velux Model 108 Skylights
71. plywood layout for above
72. 50 Hex for Velux Model 308 Skylights
73. plywood layout for above
74. 18/18 & 27/27 Riser Walls for 50 Dome
75. 18/27 & 27/18 Riser Walls for 50 Dome
76. Standard & Extension Shear Panels for 50 Dome
Sheetrock® is a registered trademark of
United States Gypsum Company. Velux® is a registered trademark
of Velux-America Inc. Senco® is a registered trademark
of Senco Products Inc. Crescent® is a registered trademark
of Cooper Industries Inc.